Pores are deeply misunderstood, but we’re here to help demystify the myths. “The biggest misconception about pores and pore size is that pores open and close (they do not) and that the skin breathes through the pores (it also does not),” says celebrity aesthetician and founder of Refinery4 Samantha Susca. “I joke all the time with my clients that pores do not have little tiny doors attached to them, nor do they have little lungs attached to them.”
Ultimately, pore size is largely determined by genetics. Oily skin tends to have larger, more visible pores, while drier skin often has smaller ones—both tied to how much oil sebaceous glands produce and retain, explains Susca. While most congestion occurs due to internal contributors like oil production and hormonal fluctuations, there are ways to take better care of your pores.
Aesthetician and founder and CEO of Lenox & Sixteenth Amy Peterson says pore care begins with a mindset shift. Jena Irby, aesthetician and owner of SkinFIT Aesthetics, notes it’s important to recognize that all humans have pores and that misleading “poreless” filters and over-edited skin are unrealistic. Although you cannot physically shrink pores, you can dramatically refine how they appear, Peterson says. She adds that pores reflect behavior and skin thrives on rhythm, not extremes—a theme echoed throughout the expert advice below.
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Gentle Exfoliation
Pores appear larger when filled with oil, debris and dirt, says Susca, so the key is keeping them clear. Celebrity aesthetician and holistic brand founder Tammy Fender says one of the best ways to care for and refine pores is through gentle exfoliation—with emphasis on gentle. “By whisking away buildup and anything that might be clogging pores, they’re able to become less visible,” she explains.
While over-exfoliation can aggravate skin and exacerbate pore concerns, neglecting exfoliation allows debris and dead skin to accumulate within the follicle, warns Peterson. She recommends chemical exfoliation with salicylic acid to help keep the pore lining clear and dissolve congestion at its source.
Don’t Pick Your Pores
Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD says it’s common for people to cause traumatic irritation and scarring by picking at pores. “As a dermatologist, I frequently see patients who have done such damage to their pores that they now have irreversible scarring,” he says. “It is so very important to avoid picking at pores and scabs that can eventually lead to scars. Pores, while frustrating, are part of your natural facial characteristics, and scars are not easily treatable.”
Susca also warns against at-home extractions, which can lead to scarring, infection, skin impaction and stretched pores.
Reduce Oil
Excess oil and sebum contribute to enlarged pores, so stabilizing sebum production can help refine their appearance. Fender recommends using a clay-based mask several times a week to draw out oils that may block and stretch pores.
Don’t Overcleanse
“Once people put together the idea that excess oil and sebum cause enlarged pores, there’s a tendency to want to over-cleanse,” says Fender. “It’s understandable, but what most people don’t realize is that when you over-cleanse and over-strip the skin, it encourages an increase in sebum production.”
“Refined pores are less about stripping the skin and more about intelligent support,” adds Peterson. “Cleansing should feel thorough yet gentle. When the barrier is compromised, the skin compensates by producing more oil, which can exaggerate pore visibility.”
Get Regular Facials
“I often remind patients that regular facials are not indulgent; they are strategic maintenance,” says Peterson. Susca recommends getting regular facials with professional extractions, likening them to routine dental cleanings.
Wear Sunscreen
Irby says lack of sun protection is one of the most common mistakes she sees when it comes to pore health. Peterson notes that daily SPF use helps preserve the structural integrity of pores and should not be skipped.
Avoid Comedogenic Products
“Make sure your products are not clogging your pores,” says Susca, who recommends checking makeup and skin-care labels for comedogenic ingredients, which can contribute to congestion. Avoiding heavier, occlusive formulas is especially important if your skin is already oily.
Protect the Skin Barrier
Many aspects of skin care circle back to maintaining a healthy, balanced skin barrier. Too much aggressive exfoliation or too little cleansing can both contribute to clogged pores, so balance is key.
“As the barrier pertains to pores, my biggest tip is to keep skin free of excess debris and control sebum production,” says Irby. She recommends building a routine with an aesthetician or dermatologist tailored to your skin barrier so it includes the right balance of exfoliation and hydration.
Add Retinol to Your Routine
Peterson says retinols are foundational when it comes to long-term refinement of pores. “Retinol plays a critical role in normalizing cellular turnover and stimulating collagen around the pore wall, creating a smoother, more refined texture over time.”
Consider In-Office Treatments
“Professional treatments such as microneedling or fractional lasers elevate results by remodeling skin quality at a deeper level,” says Peterson. “The goal is never to erase pores, but to create stronger, clearer skin that reflects light effortlessly.” Talk with your dermatologist to see if there is a treatment that might be right for your skin type and goals.
Maintain Proper Nutrition
Susca notes the importance of understanding glycation and how “a diet high in processed and refined sugars can break down collagen fibers, ultimately leading to the appearance of stretched pores.” She recommends limiting refined carbohydrates and sugars while increasing fiber and foods rich in natural vitamin A.