If you’ve been hearing about the so-called salmon sperm facial, you’re not alone. The name might stop you in your tracks, but skin-care pros and patients are getting serious about this celebrity-loved treatment. In a recent episode of The Beauty Authority, New York dermatologist Elaine Kung, MD joined us to explain what this buzzworthy ingredient actually is, how it works and whether it lives up to the hype. Spoiler alert: There’s real science behind it.
1. It’s not what it sounds like.
No, this does not involve rubbing fish on your face. “We’re not talking about going out to the fish market, buying salmon sperm and smearing it all over your face,” says Dr. Kung. “That is not what the rage is.”
So what is it really? “Salmon sperm DNA fragments are actually short chain DNA fragments called polyribonucleotides. So we’ll use abbreviations PDRN for short. They are actually extracted from salmon seminal fluid and highly purified to make into cosmetic skin care,” she explains.
2. The benefits go beyond glow.
Whether it’s used at home or in a dermatologist’s office, PDRN offers a range of skin benefits. “So when we think about treatments either in the topical form, like a daily skin care item, or as an adjunct to another procedure like microneedling or laser procedures, we’re thinking of benefits on a more superficial level,” explains Dr. Kung. “So it would be better skin texture and also like a glow from the procedure. There’s like a nice brightening effect.”
She says it can also be helpful for common skin concerns. “It works well for dryness, dehydration, sensitive skin, rosacea, some dullness, an uneven skin tone,” she says. “And because PDRN is highly purified, it’s not irritating.”
3. It works even better with collagen boosting treatments.
Because our skin is designed to keep things out, applying PDRN on its own doesn’t go very deep. “These serums work best when combined with treatments like microneedling or laser,” explains Dr. Kung. “That temporarily opens the barrier so the ingredient can penetrate where it needs to.”
4. Injectable versions exist but not yet in the U.S.
In Korea, PDRN is widely used in injectable form, and Rejuran is the most recognized brand. It’s one of several salmon DNA–based injectables on the market, but it’s gained popularity for its safety record and visible results. “In the injectable format, what we’re doing is directly injecting the short chain DNA fragments derived from salmon sperm into the dermis where our fibroblasts that make collagen and elastin are,” says Dr. Kung. “Or the key skin cells that do cellular repair.”
She notes that the injectable option can lead to more significant skin improvement. “I think you have even better results for skin texture, tightening, firmness,” she says.
Rejuron launched in 2014 and has more than a decade of safety data. “Rejuron has had over 10 years of safety data in Korea,” says Dr. Kung. “I actually think [FDA approval] is coming. Of course, the FDA is conservative about us injecting products into our patients… but I think it would be a hard press that there’s no FDA approval coming soon.”
5. It’s sustainable.
Despite the name, this is a highly purified ingredient that is safe for most skin types. “Salmon sperm is a byproduct of the fishing industry,” explains Dr. Kung. “Instead of being discarded, it’s upcycled and processed in labs where the DNA is extracted and cleaned to remove anything that could cause irritation.” She adds that PDRN works well alongside other ingredients like vitamin C or retinoids and can be layered without issues.
6. You can try it in skin care now.
Even though PDRN injectables aren’t FDA approved yet, topical options are already available in the U.S. and they’re gaining traction. From serums to moisturizers, more brands are formulating with salmon-derived DNA to support skin repair, hydration and that coveted glass-skin glow.
Dr. Kung has personally tested dozens of these products and brought some of her favorites back from Korea. “I really do think that because PDRN is highly purified, it’s not irritating,” she says. “If you find a brand that puts it in its moisturizer, it really does help give you a nice radiant glow like the glass skin that people talk about.”
It also layers seamlessly with other actives. “It works well with everything else that we might be doing for maintenance. It works well with Botox, dermal fillers, lasers,” she adds. “If you actually get a product that has PDRN in the moisturizer, it will play very well with our other favorite ingredients, like a vitamin C serum or like a retinoid. They do not counteract each other.”
As for her own routine? “Even today, I’m only wearing sunscreen and a vegan PDRN product,” she said during our chat. “No makeup. That’s how good it is.”
