There are certain actives that every A+ skin-care routine should have—a retinol, an AHA or BHA, a peptide, a niacinamide—all to keep your skin in tip-top shape while also working to protect your skin barrier. Though this list is not exhaustive, there is one active in particular that has remained a staple in my own routine for years: vitamin C. A potent antioxidant to help protect the skin against the elements, it is often paired with ferulic acid and hydrators such as hyaluronic acid; it helps to brighten the complexion, boost collagen, reduce fine lines, and maximizes the protective benefits of your SPF. And for someone like myself who is prone to melasma and dark spots, adding an antioxidant like vitamin C to my skin-care routine is a non-negotiable.
As a beauty editor, I try so many products that I often lose track, which means it takes a very special product to catch my attention, and the Biologique Recherche Sérum Spectral ($195) did just that. The serum is an antioxidant in the same way vitamin C is; it does the heavy lifting that vitamin C does but works more closely with your skin’s biology and is safe to use both morning and night along with your other actives. I was sold on the science behind the product so I swapped out my daily vitamin C serum and put this one to the test.
All About the Product
This iconic French skin-care brand that’s replete with cult classics such as Lotion P50 is renowned for its active ingredients that mimic treatment-level results. Designed for twice-a-day daily use, Sérum Spectral is inspired by photobiology, the study of how living organisms respond to light. The idea behind this biomimetic serum is that it doesn’t protect against UV light itself. Rather, it enables skin to mimic how plants respond to light, offering an additional barrier of protection underneath your sunscreen.
As many know, UV light triggers a biological reaction in the skin, and if our skin is not properly protected it can become less radiant, wrinkles settle, dark spots appear, and skin progressively loses firmness and elasticity over time. In addition to consistent SPF use, this serum steps in to mimic your own biological mechanisms to help your skin build resilience against the elements over time and with consistent use.
The formula contains three active ingredients based on the adaptive strategies of plants because they are constantly exposed to light and temperature variations in the same way our skin is. The three actives: lingonberry, schisandra berries and indirubin, which basically aid the skin in mimicking the adaptive nature and defense mechanisms of plants. More specifically:
- Lingonberry: from the same family as cranberries and blueberries, it is rich in polyphenols and acts as an antioxidant adaptogen.
- Schisandra berries: an adaptogen, it helps the body (and skin) respond to biological stressors.
- Indirubin: a chemical compound that has anti-inflammatory properties. Within the skin, this biopigment enhances the skin’s own protective function.
My Experience Using the Product
I started using the serum about three weeks ago. Its non-greasy milky pink texture absorbs quickly into the skin. My skin can sometimes be on the sensitive side and this serum, unlike a lot of vitamin-C serums that I’ve tried, does not sting or irritate my skin. As instructed, I have been applying the serum morning and evening as my serum step, but depending upon the consistency of what I am using, I fit it in accordingly. I place several drops on my face, neck and décolleté and blend in an upward movement. My skin just drinks up the serum almost immediately.
In the several weeks since I have started using the serum, I’ve noticed that my skin tone looks more even and my skin is a bit smoother. The results so far are rather subtle but even this little bit helps as I start to battle melasma that flares during the warmer months. I’m looking forward to seeing how the serum will continue to help my skin throughout the summer.