As the silent-but-mighty ingredient of beta-glucan reveals new studies, beauty brands and post-treatment protocols take notice.
What Is Beta-Glucan?
Cincinnati cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos notes that beta-glucans have been around for some time as cosmetic ingredients, but new research highlighting their benefits—and their natural sourcing—are bringing renewed interest. “Beta-glucans are biopolymers that can be derived from bacteria, fungi or plants,” she says. “Due to their large molecule size, they act as powerful humectants, attracting and binding moisture to the skin much like hyaluronic acid does. They help prevent water loss from the skin by forming a protective film on the surface, keeping it hydrated and supple. Some studies even indicate beta-glucans can be up to 20 percent more hydrating than hyaluronic acid at the same concentration.”
Featured Experts
- Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist in Cincinnati, OH
- Dr. Jotie Saini is Lancôme’s director of scientific communications
- Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in Dallas
What Does It Do?
Beta-glucan provides hydration, skin-barrier reinforcement and repair, all while accelerating surface cell renewal. “There are anti-aging benefits as well, such as reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles and improving firmness,” says Dr. Jotie Saini, Lancôme’s director of scientific communications. “It also has soothing and antioxidant properties, making it an excellent ingredient in skin care.”
Why Experts Like It
Dallas dermatologist Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, MD says beta-glucan is currently one of her favorite hydrating ingredients. “Many people don’t know about it, but it is a great multitasker that combines antioxidant properties, while helping support the skin barrier,” she explains, adding that she sees the ingredient a lot in K-beauty products. “It is a great antioxidant that boosts the skin barrier and hydration levels. It is one of my favorite ingredients for patients looking for dewy, hydrated skin. Plus, it has anti-aging properties that help to decrease the appearance of wrinkles, redness and irritation.”
How Beta-Glucan Is Used in Skin Care
As Dr. Saini explains, when Lancôme had the idea to incorporate beta-glucan as the star ingredient in its Genifique Ultimate line, there was some inspiration from the medical space. “Beta-glucan is inspired by its use in the medical wound-healing gel technologies,” she says. “Our labs worked with the ingredient supplier to study the effects of beta-glucan when used for skin care. The ingredient was studied in in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo settings at various concentrations. Based on multiple clinical, consumer and instrumental studies, we found visible improvement in signs of skin damage within one week, and visible results on fine lines, radiance, smoothness and softness.”
Dynamic Duos
Because beta-glucans are water-soluble, they are most commonly found in creams, lotions and other water-based formulas, Dobos says. “They work well with many other skin-care ingredients, including vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol and antioxidants to enhance hydration and barrier function.”
Did You Know?
Beta-glucans are polysaccharides found in yeast, bacteria, fungi, seaweed and grains like oats, explains Dr. Houshmand. So, you can eat them, or they can be extracted and applied to your skin.
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